Indonesia Bali & Germany Travel Destination

Untouched Bali still found in Selemadeg Kaja

2006-05-07T19:46:00.000-07:00

Being famous as Bali's rice barn, Tabanan regency offers breathtaking views of terraced rice fields, like those in Selemadeg Kaja village.

Located about 26 km from the province's capital Denpasar, it is clear that Selemadeg Kaja has not been much affected by modernization.

For instance, the houses are still traditionally true Balinese in terms of architecture and function. Some houses still have rice barns and outdoor water containers that are made out of a single large stone.

The residents still adhere to traditional life, and children are not addicted to modern entertainment like play station or video games. Unlike in other villages in Bali where play station stores and VCD rentals are found everywhere, there's not one single such store in Selemadeg village.

According to the village head, I Putu Mahardika W., local residents still adhere to customary law and follow cultural wisdom.

The village's asphalted road is only 400 meters long, with other streets being tracks paved with large stones.

One ecotourism operator has being eyeing the area as a possible site for an off-road tour. There is a spot where a base camp could be set up from where there is a complete view of terraced rice fields. The spot is ideal. On a cloudless day, the peak of Mt. Batukaru in the north can be seen in the distance beyond the green rice fields. Once in a while, white egrets feeding on the paddy can be seen.

The track covers 10 km and can be used for trekking, mountain biking and off-road driving.

"Three weeks from now, the rice fields turn into a green carpet," said Putu upon seeing the newly planted paddy. "As you already know, terraced rice fields are made possible by subak," he explained. Subak is an irrigation system that dates back generations, in which farmers share water.

However, artesian water is scarce in Selemadeg Kaja village.

"We dug 125 meters deep but still failed to find any artesian water," Putu explained. "If you dig five meters you will only find stone." This is the reason the town is called Selemadeg, which means standing stone.

Farmers working in rice fields is a common sight in the village.

Driving along the track can be difficult, especially in the woods where it becomes rough and narrow. And it is a bit risky passing the river because the track is steep and slippery. The stone track is lined with shrubs, bushes and trees.

"This river depends on rain," said Putu pointing to the protruding rocks in the turbid river, which indicates a long dry season. The river is also a bathing site for villagers.

Still, trekking through the green, traditional village is a refreshing trip.

Wahyuni Kamah, Contributor, Tabanan

Lovina gains popularity with tourists

2006-05-07T19:44:00.000-07:00

Lovina may not be as popular as Kuta or Ubud for either local or foreign tourists. The name itself is quite strange, even to the Balinese. It was Singarajan poet A.A. Panji Tisna, author of the popular novel Sukreni Gadis Bali (Sukreni, Balinese Girl), who came up with the name, which stands for "Love Indonesia".

Located seven kilometers west of Singaraja, the capital of Buleleng Regency in North Bali, Lovina was just a fishing village twenty years ago and the people relied solely on agriculture and fishing for their livelihoods.

Now the area, which extends from Anturan in the east to Temukus in the west, boasts luxury hotels, a wide range of accommodation and good value restaurants. The foreign tourists who now flock here have changed the face of Lovina.

Even so, people can still find poor fishing villages, witness traditional village life, watch genuine cultural performances, visit the area's natural wonders and savor the tasty local food.

With its black sandy beach, Lovina is striving to build an image as an alternative tourist destination, featuring both water-based activities and cultural attractions.

Here, numerous guides offer dolphin tours just off Lovina's shoreline, where the creatures are frequently spotted early in the morning. Local residents have gone so far as to adopt the dolphin as the town mascot and have even constructed a dolphin statue at Lovina beach.

Tourists wishing to join a dolphin tour can go to the Kalibukbuk area, where the boat operators are experienced and professional.

One operator named Nana, for instance, is even willing to return half the cost of the tour if no dolphins are spotted during the trip. "You get a money back guarantee. You only pay for the fuel," he said.

Nana, who has been in the business for more than seven years, also offers snorkeling after the tour. "I'll take you to a beautiful coral reef and the habitat of aquarium fish," he said.

A dolphin tour, including snorkeling, takes about two hours, with prices ranging from Rp 50,000 (US$4.80) to Rp 60,000 per person. But tourists still need to bargain.

Most boats used in the tour are traditional, bamboo models with a motor attached. The boats usually leave the beach at 6 a.m., and head straight for the waters where the dolphins usually swim. Once there, the tourists wait expectantly for the dolphins to appear, which they will do if the sky is clear and the seas are not too rough. Unfortunately, some of them quickly disappear when the boats start approaching.

Another attraction you can find in Lovina is the Sapi Gerumbungan cow race, which takes place on a muddy track. Unlike other similar races, at the end of the race spectators who want to take the riders' place are invited to join in.

Despite the small number of spectators, the show always goes ahead. According to the local organizer, the race is held twice a week in peak season and once a week during the low season.

"We should be smart enough to entertain the tourists who stay in our home stays," said Agung, one of the home stay owners in Lovina. "And I offer them new spots to visit that haven't been promoted."

Staying in Lovina means being free of traffic jams, while witnessing traditional village life and enjoying the quiet atmosphere.

Wahyuni Kamah, Contributor, Denpasar

Lombok's tourist industry takes another beating

2006-05-07T19:42:00.000-07:00

There are about 10 tourists at the shuttle bus stop in Padangbai harbor, Bali, taking a few refreshments as they wait for the ferry to Lombok.

Most of them are Europeans, and they appear to be "real" travelers, people who would not care too much about the possible ramifications of the Sept. 11 terrorist attacks or the anti-U.S. rallies in Indonesia.

"Are we the only crazy tourists visiting Lombok?" asked a Norwegian tourist. She and her friend were aware of the threat of a "sweep" of foreigners amid anger against the U.S. campaign in Afghanistan, but they came anyway.

"We are not Americans," they argued. After two weeks in Bali, they were on their way to Gili Trawangan, the tiny island off Lombok that has become famous as a tourist resort.

Others have not been so carefree.

"No (tour) guests from the U.S. or the UK have come to stay with us since the WTC bombing," said Lanang Surya from the sales department of Senggigi Beach Hotel.

Lanang said his hotel now relied mainly on the domestic market. There has been a 25 percent drop in the occupancy as most groups from Europe that had already booked rooms canceled their trips to Indonesia.

And he predicted a 30 percent to 35 percent drop in occupancy for November because of more cancellations.

"We have even lost our Australian market since the rumors about sweeps against foreigners," he said.

The plunge in the number of travelers to Lombok is obvious in Senggigi, one of the most popular tourist spots on the island. Driving through Senggigi at dusk in the weeks after the almost daily anti-U.S. rallies in Jakarta was like passing through a tourist ghost town.

"Senggigi is usually quiet, as you can see, but now it is much quieter," said Lanang.

The lack of tourists in Lombok has not only hit the hotel and restaurant business, but also the low-income vendors that offer their goods on the beach.

"There are no buyers and we cannot sell our goods," said a souvenir vendor who usually hawks on Senggigi Beach.

However, in terms of the number of visitors, some people in Senggigi think things are still better than two years ago when a religious riot struck Lombok and tourists canceled in droves.

"Because of the riot in 1999, Senggigi suffered severely for more than six months as hotels didn't have any guests at all," said Saiful, a beach hotel security guard.

"The people of Lombok have learned much from the 1999 riot when we lost a lot of business," he said, adding that people in Senggigi depend on the tourist industry for their living.

The lack of tourists has hit other businesses, too.

"Business has been bad. No guests have visited my gallery since the Sept. 11 attack on the WTC," said Herry, the owner of Pamour Gallery in South Senggigi. "If Bali has few tourists, Lombok will get even fewer since tourists in Lombok are mainly from Bali."

On the main road in Senggigi, where some galleries and tour operators are situated, few tourists are seen. "Only a few foreign tourists stop over in Senggigi now," an employee of Perama shuttle bus operator in Senggigi said.

"They only stay here one night and then go to the Gilis, where they stay longer," she said.

The bus from Bangsal -- a small harbor that connects the Gilis and Lombok -- was filled with tourists returning from Gili Trawangan, but only four backpackers got on the bus in Senggigi, headed back to Bali.

"After the WTC attack there were still some tourists that came here. However, following rumors of a sweep against foreigners, their number has dropped. The bus from Bali is often not full," the shuttle bus operator added.

Wahyuni Kamah, Contributor, Senggigi, Lombok

Ayam Taliwang thriving despite fast-food boom

2006-05-07T19:39:00.000-07:00

A visit to Lombok is not complete without eating ayam taliwang -- fried, grilled or roasted chicken, a popular local cuisine.

In Mataram, the capital of West Nusa Tenggara province, there are a number of restaurants that call themselves ayam taliwang restaurants, or those that include the special dish on their menus. However, the most popular restaurant there is Rumah Makan Taliwang I that specializes in ayam taliwang and is known for its authentic taste.

Sandwiched between the shops in Jl. A.A. Gede Ngurah, Cakranegara, Lombok, Rumah Makan Ayam Taliwang I has served its loyal customers since 1968. Dinner is the busiest time and if you are a little late, the menus are likely to have run out.

Rumah Makan Ayam Taliwang I was the first restaurant in Mataram. It was called Ayam Taliwang because the founders, the late H.A. Murad and his wife, Salmah, came from Kampung Karang Taliwang, Cakranegara on Lombok island.

Despite the growing presence of fast-food chicken restaurants in Mataram, Alwi, Murad's son who runs the restaurant business, doesn't worry about his competitors.

Unlike fast-food outlets or other ayam taliwang restaurants, Rumah Makan Ayam Taliwang I only serves ayam kampung (local free-range chicken) and uses no preservatives.

Ayam kampung, indeed, has a different taste. Its flesh is more delicious and sweeter than broiler chicken though you must really use your teeth since it is not as tender. Ayam kampung is leaner and smaller than the broiler chicken. So if you are really hungry, one portion of ayam taliwang may not be enough.

The restaurant also accepts orders from outside Mataram. Some loyal restaurant-goers order the food to take with them as far away as Malaysia and China. No additives are used in restaurant food and all ingredients used to make the accompanying dishes such as pelecing kangkung (kangkung drizzled with tangy tomato sambal) and beberok terong (cooked eggplant with fresh chopped onion and chili sauce), are fresh.

The dishes available in Ayam Taliwang I restaurant, such as ayam taliwang, rawon (dark beef soup), kare (curry), sop kikil , pelecing kangkung and beberok terong are very hot and spicy.

Ayam taliwang is served either roasted or fried. Ayam pelecing (spicy grilled chicken) is roasted or fried, while ayam plalah is cooked in chilli sauce and thick coconut milk. Ayam pelecing is the hottest of the lot as the chicken is showered with hot chilli sauce.

If you are not used to hot and spicy cuisine, you should be careful because this food will burn your tongue and make you perspire. Ayam taliwang is usually served with pelecing kangkung or beberok terong and both are very hot.

One portion of roast or grilled chicken costs Rp 15,000 (US$ 1.50).

Despite the prices, which are a bit steep for such restaurants, people keep coming. They are drawn by the delicious aroma and taste of the authentic dishes at Ayam Taliwang.

Ibu Salmah, Alwi's mother, formulated all the ingredients in the recipes. The formula has been passed down from one generation to another.

"Now my wife has learned it from my mother," Alwi said. According to him, taliwang food is said to have originated from Sasak kings and nobility.

To make the spices used daily by the restaurant they use five kilograms of fresh chilli, one kilogram of dried chilli, three kilograms of cabe rawit (small green chili) and 50 coconuts.

The 75-year-old woman is assisted by Alwi's wife and another 12 staff members in the preparation of the ingredients. In the morning, the kitchen is busy. Everything is prepared traditionally. They use a traditional spice grinder instead of a modern blender to pound the ingredients and use firewood to fuel the stove to cook the spices.

The spice mixture is cooked in the morning and then brought to the restaurant before noon. The restaurants use the cooked spices until night. Alwi said that special dishes that need fresh ingredients like beberok terong are made as soon as visitors place an order.

Wahyuni Kamah, Contributor, Denpasar, Bali

LIMP BIZKIT BUCKLES ON SE ASIA RUN

2006-05-02T01:24:00.000-07:00

JAKARTA - It's not the first time that a foreign band has canceled a concert in Indonesia. After Mariah Carey cancelled her concert in Jakarta that was scheduled for November 2003, another U.S. rock band, Limp Bizkit, also cancelled just three days before a scheduled concert in Bali, citing security concerns.

Original Production, which was promoting the Limp Bizkit concert in Indonesia, had to issue a press release on Dec. 2 canceling the highly anticipated Dec. 5 at Lotus Pond of Garuda Wisnu Kencana in Jimbaran, Bali. The Indonesian promoter is bitter. "The official management and agent of Limp Bizkit in the U.S. said the cancellation is because the controversial vocalist [of] Limp Bizkit, Fred Durst, had one-sidedly cancelled their Southeast Asian countries [dates]," the press release from Original Production stated.
Concerts on the "Summer Sanitarium World Tour" scheduled for Singapore, Thailand and the Philippines that week were also nixed following a Nov. 21 U.S.-government-issued travel advisory in the wake of the terrorist bombing in Turkey. "The very reason why Limp Bizkit/Fred Durst cancelled their concerts in some Southeast Asian countries [is] because of the indistinct fear of Fred Durst on the grounds of security reason[s] referring to the appeal of [the] U.S. State Department," the press release of Original Production stated. "It does not reflect the professional attitude of a band like Limp Bizkit," although the promoter did his best to persuade the band to keep playing in Bali on Dec. 5, the press release added.
Local news outlets in Southeast Asia were not kind, either, often noting the disconnect between the band's defiant lyrics and decision to "head for a shelter," as one columnist put it.
The main sponsor of the concert, Gudang Garam International, a cigarette brand, had extensively promoted the concert in billboards, newspapers and flyers to the tune of about $119,047 (U.S.) and seven local television stations were scheduled to broadcast the event.
Tommy Pratama, the promoter, said that, along with other concert promoters in
Southeast Asia, "we [will] try to persuade the band to reschedule the concert in the near future." "The band violated the contract because the management and agent cancelled the concert just one week before it was scheduled. [If] the rescheduled concert does not materialize, we may bring the case into the court," Pratama said. "It is understandable when they consider Indonesia unsafe, but how about Singapore?" asked Pratama. The Singapore Indoor Stadium had expected the band on Dec. 3. Midas Promotions stated that they also only received notification of the cancellation on Dec. 2. BEC Tero Entertainment, the promoter in Bangkok, also made the cancellation announcement on Dec. 3.
"Actually it [was] Fred Durst who opted for Bali as the venue for its concert in
Indonesia," Pratama argued.

VIP tickets for the concert were $29.70 and regular admission was set at $17.80.
Package tours for the trip to Bali, including transportation, hotel and shuttle to the show were also offered, and will be refunded, Pratama said.
Dates in South Korea and Japan this week are going ahead as planned. The band is next due to play Castle Hall in Osaka, Japan, Dec. 18. The band is popular, although Limp Bizkit's four-letter lyrics on some radio stations in
Jakarta are normally censored. - Wahyuni Kamah
Interviewed for this story: Tommy Pratama, +62 816 843 692; Revie Dhut, Original
Production, +62 21 727 94 423

Demak: A Javanese town of Islamic saints

2006-05-02T01:10:00.000-07:00

DEMAK, Central Java (JP): Traveling by public bus to Demak from Semarang, the capital of Central Java, you will pass along the only highway along the coast of north Java -- popularly known as Jalur Pantai Utara Jawa, or Pantura. For the 22 kilometers from Semarang to Demak, the highway is busy with trucks carrying cargo, intercity buses and cars. The typical view as you drive along Pantura highway is of houses and vendors' stands on each side of the road. You can either take an air-conditioned bus plying the Semarang-Surabaya route, or an economy-class bus for Rp 1,400 one way. The bus drivers generally exceed the speed limit, but most of the passengers do not seem to mind. A sign proclaiming Demak Kota Wali, which means Demak City of Saints, greets you at the entrance of this small town. Demak is noted for the Wali Songo -- the nine Islamic saints who together were largely responsible for spreading Islam throughout Java.

After arriving at the small and uncrowded bus terminal, I decided to visit the famous Great Demak Mosque -- believed to be the first mosque in Java -- which is near the town square and only a few meters from the bus terminal. Although only a short walk from the terminal, the hot midday sun convinced me it was better to take a becak (pedicab), the town's main mode of transportation.

The front of the mosque is very simple looking. The serambi (roofed porch) reminded me of Javanese architecture, with its unique three-tiered roof. There is a tower by the gate, the appearance of which indicates it was built after the mosque was constructed. Most of the ground of the courtyard is covered by concrete blocks, with a few trees in between.

The porch of the mosque is the ideal place to relax on a hot day, and there are always lots of people taking advantage of this cool spot. The serambi, which was constructed during the period of the second sultanate of Demak, is supported by eight meticulously carved wooden pillars. It is said that the pillars were a gift from the last king of Majapahit, Brawijaya V, to his son, the sultan of Demak. Two large drums and two kentongan (gong) are situated on the porch. A number of ceramic plates have been placed in the wall.

Founded by Babad Demak in 1477, the main feature of the mosque is the 31-meter-long by 31-meter-wide main room, which has wooden doors that have been painted green.

You are not allowed to take photographs inside the mosque and, like in other mosques, women must dress properly and cover their heads. Inside the mosque men and women use separate areas to pray, and the areas are divided by a curtain. While some men were praying and reciting the Koran, I spoke with a woman who had traveled a long way to pray here. She said she wanted to seek blessings by praying in the Great Demak Mosque.

Pillars

The historical and legendary part of the mosque are the four wooden pillars, called the soko guru, that support the wooden roof of the mosque. These pillars are named after the Walis who participated in the construction of the mosque: Sunan Ampel, Sunan Bonang, Sunan Gunungjati and Sunan Kalijaga.

It is said that one of the pillars was made of tatal, or pieces of wood held together by metal bands. This would have been the work of Sunan Kalijaga, who was known as soko guru tatal. It was believed he used his metaphysical powers to make tatal.

The original four soko guru were replaced with replica's in 1983 and now reside in a museum in the mosque compound.

One of the Walis, Sunan Kalijaga, was also famous for correcting the direction of the kiblat (the direction of Mecca) of the mosque, which is usually marked by a mihrab (niche in a mosque wall facing Mecca).

Islamic power

The mosque was the symbol of Islamic power and a place where the Walis discussed many subjects.

Indonesia's most distinguished ulema, Prof. Hamka, once said that Wali Songo's legacy was the philosophical and symbolic way in which the mosque was created. This was first revealed when the mosque was renovated in 1507.

"The five doors of the mosque symbolize the five pillars of Islam, the six windows symbolize the six pillars of Iman (faith) and the three-tiered roof symbolizes Islam (the lower), Iman (the middle) and Ihsan (good deeds, at the top)," said the museum guide, Solihin.

The very top of the mosque is called the mastaka. It symbolizes the makrifat, or esoteric knowledge of God. The year the mosque was constructed is revealed in a picture on its mihrab. The picture was made according to the Javanese calendar, and it shows the year of construction as 1479.

People come to the mosque compound not only to pray, but also to visit the graves of the first king of the Islamic kingdom in Java, Raden Patah, and his followers. The graves are situated at the rear of the mosque. Raden Patah, the son of Brawijaya V, king of the Buddhist Majapahit kingdom, together with a princess from Campa, a kingdom in Southeast Asia, founded Demak as the center of the Islamic kingdom in Java. This was in the beginning of the 16th century, at the same time Raden Patah became the first sultan of Demak.

In its golden period, the sphere of influence of the sultanate of Demak reached as far as Banjar, Kalimantan. The sultanate also ceaselessly fought against the colonial Portuguese.

The collection in the small museum also includes photos and objects passed down from Sunan Kalijaga, the mosque's cofounder. The most memorable object in the collection is a drum, known as bedug Sunan Kalijaga. Kalijaga introduced the bedug as a way to summon people to pray, who would come to the mosque when they heard the sound of the drum.

Solihin said the mosque compound is visited by about 2,000 people every day, except for during the fasting month of Ramadhan.

Most people making the journey to Demak come on tour packages. Besides visiting the mosque, they also visit the grave of Sunan Kalijaga in Kadilangu. Demak residents have named the grave Makam Kadilangu, and it is located about two kilometers from the mosque.

After the Ashar prayer, throngs of local women come to the mosque. In a few minutes, the empty serambi is again filled with women who have come to recite the Koran together or just to listen. The mosque is never empty.

By: Wahyuni Kamah

LABOR PROBLEM: A TORN IN FLESHES

2006-05-02T01:07:00.000-07:00

Not only national companies that use Indonesian laborers like a cow to milk dry, but also big transnationals such as Nike, whose spanking-new black sneakers were used by members of Heaven’s Gate cult in preparing for their deaths. Transnationals seek out low-wage countries and highly repressive governments. The two go hand-in-hand because repression prevents workers for organizing better wages and condition. On July last year Cicih Sukaesih, a female Indonesian labor who was fired four years ago from a Nike shoe factory in Indonesia, was in Portland, Oregon, US on a speaking tour of five US cities. She slipped into the Nike Town store as demonstrators were gathering in front. She related the emotions she had felt in the store’s shoe department: “My first thought, as I held those shoes in my hands, was a pride at how well-made they were and that I had a part in making such fine a shoe. And then I put them on my feet. They feel so good! For years I worked in the factory, and until now I never had a pair of Nikes on my feet. We could not even think of buying them at the wages we received.’ To purchase a pair of the shoes she makes, Nike worker would have to devote every penny from two or three months of her paychecks.

Nike factory in Indonesia contributes 35 percent of Nike exported shoes in international market. Their 6000 laborers staged a strike on April 25. Office of PT HASI (Hardaya Aneka Shoes Industry) in Tanggerang, in West of Jakarta, which produces Nike shoes was damaged. The laborers also damaged a car belonging to Engkos Kosim, the Head of Man Power Dept. of Tanggerang, and injured the security officer, Ernowo Prasetyo. Two days earlier, on Tuesday, around 10,000 workers of PT HASI marched 10 km from factory to Tanggerang City Council causing traffic jams. They demanded welfare improvement which among other things included repayment of their premium attendance namely Rp. 4,000 per week (± US 1.8) and 10.07 percent increase of minimum wage.

While on April 24, 1997, 2000 laborers of PT Surya Achilles Indonesia in Bekasi, East of Jakarta demonstrated silently. According to the laborers, since 1995, the company which produces shoes exported to Japan has paid Rp. 4,300/day or Rp. 128,000 monthly. “Our wage remained the same as in 1996 and in 1997 the company announced that our wage would not be risen,” a labor said. On April 22, the company announced that it was only able to pay Rp. 5,200/day or Rp. 156,000/month which is below the 1997 monthly minimum wage (Rp. 5,700/day). Besides, laborers demanded full payment of their over-time money. They only earn 2-hour overtime money per day although they work 3-4 extra hours. The management also cut their wage Rp. 1,500/ week without giving explanation.

On June 2, 2500 laborers of PT Sony Elektronik Indonesia in Bekasi which produces electronic goods, were on strike demanding 16 requirements. Their main claims included periodical wage rise, health allowance and wage distinction between new and old laborers. While on the same day, hundreds of PT Surabaya Nurleater laborers in Surabaya, East Java, demonstrated on the street. The laborers demanded the company whose leather gloves and garments products are exported to US, to reemploy four laborers that had been fired.

On January 22 the government announced that beginning on April 1st, the monthly regional minimum wage in each of 27 provinces is risen 10.07 percent. The increase varied in each province ranging from the lowest in Batam (South Sumatra) (6.57 percent) to the highest in Jember (East Java) (18.05 percent). The previous monthly minimum wage in Batam was Rp. 220,500 and now it is Rp. 235,000. In Jember the wage was increased from Rp. 111,000 to Rp. 127,500.

Reginoal minimum wage is determined every year. The determination is based on minimum life need, consumer price index, job opportunity, and general regional wage, development and capability of each company, and economy rate. The amount of new regional minimum wage is based on monthly wage and is decided by decree of Minister of Manpower. Prediction of the minimum need is 3,000 calorie per day. In each province, the component was adjusted with local cost and local inflation rate.

Though the minimum wage was risen, laborers remained unhappy because they already struck with the increasing price of nine basic needs. “It is really a burden for FSPSI (All-Indonesia Workers Union Federation) to restrain the flare among the laborers,” said Sugeng Sutrisno, Secretary of Chemistry, Energy and Mine division of East Java FSPSI. Moreover, the standpoint used to increase the wage still referred to the scale method in 1956. For instance, the light source in labor’s house is karosene lamp and bed is made of plaited mat. It disadvantages laborers, said Indro Sugianto, Director of Legal Aid Institute Surabaya, East Java. “It should have used minimum physical needs for single labor in current condition”, Indro added. The figure below minimum life need makes laborer live inhumanly. Moreover in many factories wage ratio between the highest manager and labor is 250:1. It is beacuse economy development in Indonesia doesn’t provide wide work oppportunity,and it goes hand in hand with the wide number of unskilled low workforce.

It’s a pity that the minimum wage is calculated individually. It is not related to the number of children that labor has. The rise is only limited to daily wage, said Imam Sudarwo, House member of Commission VI and former SPSI chairman. Therefore, some unrests that demanded wage rise were a normative phenomenon. It’s normal, he added

Bomer Pasaribu, member of the House and Chairman of FSPSI commented that average labor cost in Indonesia is very low, it is only 7-9 percent of total unit cost. To increase Indonesian labors’ wage is quite difficult because on the other hand, there are invisible cost, collusion cost, free rider, rent seeking cost, and so on, which can be twice or three times higher than labor cost. Comparison of wage and productivity Indonesia is categorized the lowest among developing countries of new Asia industrial countries. World Bank report in 1995 revealed Indonesia has the lowest wage, it’s only Rp. 571 per hour. It’s the same as in Bangladesh. It reflects knowledgemnet to Indonesian laborers is affected by paradigm “very low wage is a comparative excellence.

Are foreign investors more drawn to invest in Indonesia because of the above paradigm? The conscutive increase of wage and salary makes investment cost in Indonesia sharply incline. It is also induced with the increase of property price. Moreover, red tape, bribery and other illegal payments could make Indonesia less attractive to foreign investors.

According to Sjahrir, director of the chamber’s Institute for Economic Studies Research and Development, World Economic Forum rated Indonesia the worst country in terms of irregular additional payments or illegal payments in 1997.

“Foreign investor tolerate irregular payments and count them as routine business expenditure now, but they will be concerned about them eventually,” Sjahrir said. Indonesia’s success in climbing from 30th place to 15th pale on the forum’s 1997 Global most competitive economies ladder, would be harder to maintain next year, he said.

by: Wahyuni Kamah

Homestays where the heart is in Ubud

2006-04-27T01:54:00.000-07:00

Since the 1970s, Ubud has been one of Bali's popular tourist destinations and many travelers fall in love with its beautiful panoramic scenery. Many of them seek mystical experiences and a good place to dwell on values different from theirs.

They want to learn about Balinese culture by living with local families in this sub-district in Gianyar Regency, about 15 kilometers north-east of capital Denpasar.

Others become faithful residents, marry locals and speak Balinese as fluent as the natives.

The increase in visiting tourists has boosted the demand for accommodation starting from private villas to homestays, specially for backpackers.

Modest homestays are now not only spread along Jl. Raya Ubud but also along Jl. Gautama, Jl. Maruti, Jl. Hanoman and Jl. Karna. They each have a board hanging in front of the house.

These homestays offer competitive prices, which are very cheap for foreign tourists.

Ibu Ketut, wife of the owner of Donald Homestay, only charges Rp 40,000 (US$4) per room per night.

"I can give you a discount if you stay longer," said Ketut, who also runs a small warung (stall) selling Indonesian food and drinks on Jl. Gautama.

Her homestay has four clean rooms that sit in a neatly arranged small garden behind her house compound. She claimed her guests always enjoyed their stay and always returned there.

Sudana, owner of the next door homestay, offered an even cheaper price of Rp 30,000 per night per room. He only has five rooms in a small compound.

Each room has only a bed, a small wooden desk and a private bathroom with cold shower, but it's enough.

Most homestays in Ubud are usually run by families. The owners live in the front part of the house while the rented rooms are located at the back. The number of the rooms in these homestays are usually less than 10.

At a homestay on Jl. Hanoman, owned by painter Dewa Nyoman Jati, there is a small rice barn, family temple and also a bale (wooden daybed). It is indeed a Balinese house.

At the back of his large site, facing the ricefield, stand five two-story plaited bamboo houses. Nyoman said many foreign tourists stay for a long time in his houses, at least for one month.

"Some tourists stay here to learn Balinese painting with me while others learn Balinese dance or music," he said proudly, adding that some of his guests come from Japan and Europe.

His homestay is also modest but looks natural as he uses bamboo furniture and a wooden interior.

Jl. Kajeng is also another popular hangout for backpackers. The homestays along this street charge various prices ranging from Rp 60,000 to Rp 200,000 per night depend on the facilities they offer.

Wayan, who only has two rooms for rent at his homestay facing a secluded garden, charged Rp 100,000 per night. "My rooms are always occupied. I had a Brazilian guest who stayed here for one month," he claimed.

Living in homestays is definitely very different from luxury resorts with prime services. However, homestays give the opportunity for tourists to experience living with a Balinese family.

They can chat and socialize freely with the locals, observe closely preparations for their Hindu rituals and even join them in making the offerings from young coconut leaves.

But Ubud also offers homestays on its outskirts located on Jl. Bisma, facing the ricefields.

To find a homestay in Ubud is not difficult as most of them have email addresses. Unfortunately, the homestays management do not download their mail regularly.

However, some even refuse to deal with technology as they have neither telephone nor other communication equipment.

"Our overseas guests usually send a letter to reserve a room," said Bendi's owner simply.

Without the beach -- like other tourist destinations in Bali namely Kuta, Seminyak, Nusa Dua or Jimbaran -- Ubud still manages to retain its popularity as a destination on the island of the gods.

"The air is still fresh and the people are friendly," said Angela, a Jakartan who stayed at a homestay on Jl. Kajeng, when asked why she visited Ubud.

Kuta -- Bali's international village where everything goes

2006-04-27T01:37:00.000-07:00

KUTA, Bali (JP): "Are you looking for a gigolo?" a young, dark-skinned, bare-chested Indonesian man said to me in English as I walked along Jl. Legian in Kuta with a friend.

He had the wrong quarry, failing to recognize I was an Indonesian who merely wanted to stroll along the shop-lined streets of Kuta, the center of Bali's tourist industry.

His approach was crude and his question vulgar, but it probably worked for him often enough. I continued window-shopping. Another few meters up an Indonesian man asked me, again in English, whether I needed a room to rent, while across the street I saw an Indonesian pushing his services as a driver and tour guide on a passing tourist.

Having been bombarded with these silly offers, I turned to my Balinese friend, Wayan, and asked her: "What is wrong with Kuta?"

To which she simply responded: "Anything you want is available here."

Maybe she's right. Tourists from all over the world fly to this small area in the southern part of Bali, and they are in the market for everything one could possibly imagine: tour guides, food and, last but not least, sex.

The tour operators say "Go south!" to those seeking nightlife in Bali. And Kuta is the right place to stop if you want to shop, party and surf. Its hustle and bustle appeals to younger tourists, with children and older people also joining in.

Kuta is like a brand, an international location with tourists speaking Japanese, Danish, Portuguese and many other languages. As far as I am concerned, it is the least Balinese part of Bali.

Things have changed since the early 1970s, when tourists were concentrated on the two Poppies lanes. Now the tourists, as well as the hotels, restaurants, cafes, shops and tour agents that cater to them, are spread from Kuta in the south to Seminyak in the north. Because the borders of these different areas are not clear to ordinary visitors, people generally call this whole stretch Kuta.

Shopping

Most upmarket shops and designer outlets are concentrated in Kuta Square, a shopping arcade and hangout for freelance tour guides and local youths. Kuta, especially Jl. Legian, undeniably has a lot to offer in the way of shopping.

From lavish, upscale boutiques to kiosks selling counterfeit watches, Kuta has it all. And all the shops are competing to attract tourist dollars, with flashy signs and layouts.

"Balinese do not shop at these kiosks," said Wayan. And indeed, most of the shoppers are tourists and the prices are adjusted accordingly. Some shops quote prices in rupiah and others in US dollars. Balinese woven cloth that can be bought for Rp 20,000 at Kumbasari market in Denpasar is sold for Rp 45,000 here.

"It is because we have to pay expensive shop rental prices," said Joko, a Javanese souvenir store owner on Jl. Legian.

High rental costs or not, there is almost no empty shop space along the busy street. Other corners of the Kuta area are similarly packed with shops and kiosks, but despite the already massive number of stores already in existence, more are under construction. Most of the stores stay open until 9 p.m., selling different items from across Indonesia, from designer dresses to antique chairs.

Beach

Over the last few years, specialized shops selling clothes and gear for surfing, diving and other water sports have mushroomed in Kuta. And no wonder, since more and more tourists are coming to Kuta for its beach. In fact, most visitors seem to think a trip to Bali without a visit to Kuta Beach would be incomplete.

A lot of surfers, particularly the beginners, are lured by the moderate waves of this white sandy beach. In addition, Kuta Beach is the most easily accessed beach for the public.

On weekends, it becomes a meeting point for both local and foreign tourists, for swimming, sunbathing, playing beach volleyball and surfing. It is also a money-making spot for masseurs, hawkers of various products and people renting surfboards.

In terms of sheer numbers of beachgoers, Kuta Beach is not as crowded as Mallorca Beach on the Mediterranean, but during the high season this two-kilometer stretch of sand is covered with tourists enjoying the tropical sun.

And driving in Kuta is neither nice or pleasant. One-way streets, the vast number of vehicles on the roads and a lack of parking lots lead to horrific traffic congestion on roads heading to Kuta Beach, Jl. Legian and Jl. Raya Kuta, and not only during rush hour.

Dining

For gourmands, Kuta can be a true delight. There are a number of attractive and romantic restaurants serving international and Indonesian cuisine. There are restaurants specializing in Greek, Mexican, Japanese and Lebanese cuisine, not to mention the ubiquitous fast-food chains like McDonald's and Kentucky Fried Chicken.

However, getting seats at some of the more popular restaurants can take a little effort, and some restaurants recommend reservations be made. My friends and I were stuck in the doorway of Poppies Restaurants one weekend and had to eat somewhere else. At Warung Made in Seminyak we had to wait for several minutes before we could get a table, while in the Hard Rock Cafe we could only get a table inside on the second floor.

Poppies

The two Poppies lanes were small and dirty alleyways in the 1970s that were favored by backpackers. Now they are called Jl. Poppies 1 and Jl. Poppies 2. They connect Jl. Legian in the east to Jl. Pantai Kuta in the west.

These narrow lanes have since been asphalted and remain very popular with backpackers and budget travelers. "I want to go to Poppies 1," said Henna, a Finnish girl who stopped me to ask for directions. She wanted somewhere cheap to stay for transit only and her guidebook told her Poppies was the place to find such accommodation.

The Poppies lanes have everything a budget traveler needs: backpacker hotels, tour agents, surfboard rentals, motorcycle rentals, reasonably cheap restaurants, money changers, etc.

The backpackers and budget travelers in the Poppies have created their own little community, a kampung turis (tourist kampung). As in other kampungs, social tensions occasionally occur and one long-time Bali resident told me: "The crime rate is serious there." No wonder, the constant flow of visitors coming and going naturally brings unexpected consequences.

"I don't like Kuta! It's no different from Blok M (shopping center in Jakarta). It is so crowded and not as friendly as I thought. I am looking for a true Balinese place in Bali," exclaimed Iwan, a young Jakartan who was visiting Kuta for the first time.

The Balinese face may indeed be fading in Kuta, but it has not disappeared. You still see canang (small, everyday offerings placed at the entrance of shops). When there is a temple festival, the Balinese who live behind the lines of shops appear in their traditional clothes, carrying their offerings on their heads. They congregate in the temples to perform their rituals, while on the other end of the road techno music blasts from the clubs.