Untouched Bali still found in Selemadeg Kaja

Being famous as Bali's rice barn, Tabanan regency offers breathtaking views of terraced rice fields, like those in Selemadeg Kaja village.

Located about 26 km from the province's capital Denpasar, it is clear that Selemadeg Kaja has not been much affected by modernization.

For instance, the houses are still traditionally true Balinese in terms of architecture and function. Some houses still have rice barns and outdoor water containers that are made out of a single large stone.

The residents still adhere to traditional life, and children are not addicted to modern entertainment like play station or video games. Unlike in other villages in Bali where play station stores and VCD rentals are found everywhere, there's not one single such store in Selemadeg village.

According to the village head, I Putu Mahardika W., local residents still adhere to customary law and follow cultural wisdom.

The village's asphalted road is only 400 meters long, with other streets being tracks paved with large stones.

One ecotourism operator has being eyeing the area as a possible site for an off-road tour. There is a spot where a base camp could be set up from where there is a complete view of terraced rice fields. The spot is ideal. On a cloudless day, the peak of Mt. Batukaru in the north can be seen in the distance beyond the green rice fields. Once in a while, white egrets feeding on the paddy can be seen.

The track covers 10 km and can be used for trekking, mountain biking and off-road driving.

"Three weeks from now, the rice fields turn into a green carpet," said Putu upon seeing the newly planted paddy. "As you already know, terraced rice fields are made possible by subak," he explained. Subak is an irrigation system that dates back generations, in which farmers share water.

However, artesian water is scarce in Selemadeg Kaja village.

"We dug 125 meters deep but still failed to find any artesian water," Putu explained. "If you dig five meters you will only find stone." This is the reason the town is called Selemadeg, which means standing stone.

Farmers working in rice fields is a common sight in the village.

Driving along the track can be difficult, especially in the woods where it becomes rough and narrow. And it is a bit risky passing the river because the track is steep and slippery. The stone track is lined with shrubs, bushes and trees.

"This river depends on rain," said Putu pointing to the protruding rocks in the turbid river, which indicates a long dry season. The river is also a bathing site for villagers.

Still, trekking through the green, traditional village is a refreshing trip.

Wahyuni Kamah, Contributor, Tabanan

Lovina gains popularity with tourists

Lovina may not be as popular as Kuta or Ubud for either local or foreign tourists. The name itself is quite strange, even to the Balinese. It was Singarajan poet A.A. Panji Tisna, author of the popular novel Sukreni Gadis Bali (Sukreni, Balinese Girl), who came up with the name, which stands for "Love Indonesia".

Located seven kilometers west of Singaraja, the capital of Buleleng Regency in North Bali, Lovina was just a fishing village twenty years ago and the people relied solely on agriculture and fishing for their livelihoods.

Now the area, which extends from Anturan in the east to Temukus in the west, boasts luxury hotels, a wide range of accommodation and good value restaurants. The foreign tourists who now flock here have changed the face of Lovina.

Even so, people can still find poor fishing villages, witness traditional village life, watch genuine cultural performances, visit the area's natural wonders and savor the tasty local food.

With its black sandy beach, Lovina is striving to build an image as an alternative tourist destination, featuring both water-based activities and cultural attractions.

Here, numerous guides offer dolphin tours just off Lovina's shoreline, where the creatures are frequently spotted early in the morning. Local residents have gone so far as to adopt the dolphin as the town mascot and have even constructed a dolphin statue at Lovina beach.

Tourists wishing to join a dolphin tour can go to the Kalibukbuk area, where the boat operators are experienced and professional.

One operator named Nana, for instance, is even willing to return half the cost of the tour if no dolphins are spotted during the trip. "You get a money back guarantee. You only pay for the fuel," he said.

Nana, who has been in the business for more than seven years, also offers snorkeling after the tour. "I'll take you to a beautiful coral reef and the habitat of aquarium fish," he said.

A dolphin tour, including snorkeling, takes about two hours, with prices ranging from Rp 50,000 (US$4.80) to Rp 60,000 per person. But tourists still need to bargain.

Most boats used in the tour are traditional, bamboo models with a motor attached. The boats usually leave the beach at 6 a.m., and head straight for the waters where the dolphins usually swim. Once there, the tourists wait expectantly for the dolphins to appear, which they will do if the sky is clear and the seas are not too rough. Unfortunately, some of them quickly disappear when the boats start approaching.

Another attraction you can find in Lovina is the Sapi Gerumbungan cow race, which takes place on a muddy track. Unlike other similar races, at the end of the race spectators who want to take the riders' place are invited to join in.

Despite the small number of spectators, the show always goes ahead. According to the local organizer, the race is held twice a week in peak season and once a week during the low season.

"We should be smart enough to entertain the tourists who stay in our home stays," said Agung, one of the home stay owners in Lovina. "And I offer them new spots to visit that haven't been promoted."

Staying in Lovina means being free of traffic jams, while witnessing traditional village life and enjoying the quiet atmosphere.

Wahyuni Kamah, Contributor, Denpasar

Lombok's tourist industry takes another beating

There are about 10 tourists at the shuttle bus stop in Padangbai harbor, Bali, taking a few refreshments as they wait for the ferry to Lombok.

Most of them are Europeans, and they appear to be "real" travelers, people who would not care too much about the possible ramifications of the Sept. 11 terrorist attacks or the anti-U.S. rallies in Indonesia.

"Are we the only crazy tourists visiting Lombok?" asked a Norwegian tourist. She and her friend were aware of the threat of a "sweep" of foreigners amid anger against the U.S. campaign in Afghanistan, but they came anyway.

"We are not Americans," they argued. After two weeks in Bali, they were on their way to Gili Trawangan, the tiny island off Lombok that has become famous as a tourist resort.

Others have not been so carefree.

"No (tour) guests from the U.S. or the UK have come to stay with us since the WTC bombing," said Lanang Surya from the sales department of Senggigi Beach Hotel.

Lanang said his hotel now relied mainly on the domestic market. There has been a 25 percent drop in the occupancy as most groups from Europe that had already booked rooms canceled their trips to Indonesia.

And he predicted a 30 percent to 35 percent drop in occupancy for November because of more cancellations.

"We have even lost our Australian market since the rumors about sweeps against foreigners," he said.

The plunge in the number of travelers to Lombok is obvious in Senggigi, one of the most popular tourist spots on the island. Driving through Senggigi at dusk in the weeks after the almost daily anti-U.S. rallies in Jakarta was like passing through a tourist ghost town.

"Senggigi is usually quiet, as you can see, but now it is much quieter," said Lanang.

The lack of tourists in Lombok has not only hit the hotel and restaurant business, but also the low-income vendors that offer their goods on the beach.

"There are no buyers and we cannot sell our goods," said a souvenir vendor who usually hawks on Senggigi Beach.

However, in terms of the number of visitors, some people in Senggigi think things are still better than two years ago when a religious riot struck Lombok and tourists canceled in droves.

"Because of the riot in 1999, Senggigi suffered severely for more than six months as hotels didn't have any guests at all," said Saiful, a beach hotel security guard.

"The people of Lombok have learned much from the 1999 riot when we lost a lot of business," he said, adding that people in Senggigi depend on the tourist industry for their living.

The lack of tourists has hit other businesses, too.

"Business has been bad. No guests have visited my gallery since the Sept. 11 attack on the WTC," said Herry, the owner of Pamour Gallery in South Senggigi. "If Bali has few tourists, Lombok will get even fewer since tourists in Lombok are mainly from Bali."

On the main road in Senggigi, where some galleries and tour operators are situated, few tourists are seen. "Only a few foreign tourists stop over in Senggigi now," an employee of Perama shuttle bus operator in Senggigi said.

"They only stay here one night and then go to the Gilis, where they stay longer," she said.

The bus from Bangsal -- a small harbor that connects the Gilis and Lombok -- was filled with tourists returning from Gili Trawangan, but only four backpackers got on the bus in Senggigi, headed back to Bali.

"After the WTC attack there were still some tourists that came here. However, following rumors of a sweep against foreigners, their number has dropped. The bus from Bali is often not full," the shuttle bus operator added.

Wahyuni Kamah, Contributor, Senggigi, Lombok

Ayam Taliwang thriving despite fast-food boom

A visit to Lombok is not complete without eating ayam taliwang -- fried, grilled or roasted chicken, a popular local cuisine.

In Mataram, the capital of West Nusa Tenggara province, there are a number of restaurants that call themselves ayam taliwang restaurants, or those that include the special dish on their menus. However, the most popular restaurant there is Rumah Makan Taliwang I that specializes in ayam taliwang and is known for its authentic taste.

Sandwiched between the shops in Jl. A.A. Gede Ngurah, Cakranegara, Lombok, Rumah Makan Ayam Taliwang I has served its loyal customers since 1968. Dinner is the busiest time and if you are a little late, the menus are likely to have run out.

Rumah Makan Ayam Taliwang I was the first restaurant in Mataram. It was called Ayam Taliwang because the founders, the late H.A. Murad and his wife, Salmah, came from Kampung Karang Taliwang, Cakranegara on Lombok island.

Despite the growing presence of fast-food chicken restaurants in Mataram, Alwi, Murad's son who runs the restaurant business, doesn't worry about his competitors.

Unlike fast-food outlets or other ayam taliwang restaurants, Rumah Makan Ayam Taliwang I only serves ayam kampung (local free-range chicken) and uses no preservatives.

Ayam kampung, indeed, has a different taste. Its flesh is more delicious and sweeter than broiler chicken though you must really use your teeth since it is not as tender. Ayam kampung is leaner and smaller than the broiler chicken. So if you are really hungry, one portion of ayam taliwang may not be enough.

The restaurant also accepts orders from outside Mataram. Some loyal restaurant-goers order the food to take with them as far away as Malaysia and China. No additives are used in restaurant food and all ingredients used to make the accompanying dishes such as pelecing kangkung (kangkung drizzled with tangy tomato sambal) and beberok terong (cooked eggplant with fresh chopped onion and chili sauce), are fresh.

The dishes available in Ayam Taliwang I restaurant, such as ayam taliwang, rawon (dark beef soup), kare (curry), sop kikil , pelecing kangkung and beberok terong are very hot and spicy.

Ayam taliwang is served either roasted or fried. Ayam pelecing (spicy grilled chicken) is roasted or fried, while ayam plalah is cooked in chilli sauce and thick coconut milk. Ayam pelecing is the hottest of the lot as the chicken is showered with hot chilli sauce.

If you are not used to hot and spicy cuisine, you should be careful because this food will burn your tongue and make you perspire. Ayam taliwang is usually served with pelecing kangkung or beberok terong and both are very hot.

One portion of roast or grilled chicken costs Rp 15,000 (US$ 1.50).

Despite the prices, which are a bit steep for such restaurants, people keep coming. They are drawn by the delicious aroma and taste of the authentic dishes at Ayam Taliwang.

Ibu Salmah, Alwi's mother, formulated all the ingredients in the recipes. The formula has been passed down from one generation to another.

"Now my wife has learned it from my mother," Alwi said. According to him, taliwang food is said to have originated from Sasak kings and nobility.

To make the spices used daily by the restaurant they use five kilograms of fresh chilli, one kilogram of dried chilli, three kilograms of cabe rawit (small green chili) and 50 coconuts.

The 75-year-old woman is assisted by Alwi's wife and another 12 staff members in the preparation of the ingredients. In the morning, the kitchen is busy. Everything is prepared traditionally. They use a traditional spice grinder instead of a modern blender to pound the ingredients and use firewood to fuel the stove to cook the spices.

The spice mixture is cooked in the morning and then brought to the restaurant before noon. The restaurants use the cooked spices until night. Alwi said that special dishes that need fresh ingredients like beberok terong are made as soon as visitors place an order.

Wahyuni Kamah, Contributor, Denpasar, Bali

LIMP BIZKIT BUCKLES ON SE ASIA RUN

JAKARTA - It's not the first time that a foreign band has canceled a concert in Indonesia. After Mariah Carey cancelled her concert in Jakarta that was scheduled for November 2003, another U.S. rock band, Limp Bizkit, also cancelled just three days before a scheduled concert in Bali, citing security concerns.

Original Production, which was promoting the Limp Bizkit concert in Indonesia, had to issue a press release on Dec. 2 canceling the highly anticipated Dec. 5 at Lotus Pond of Garuda Wisnu Kencana in Jimbaran, Bali. The Indonesian promoter is bitter. "The official management and agent of Limp Bizkit in the U.S. said the cancellation is because the controversial vocalist [of] Limp Bizkit, Fred Durst, had one-sidedly cancelled their Southeast Asian countries [dates]," the press release from Original Production stated.
Concerts on the "Summer Sanitarium World Tour" scheduled for Singapore, Thailand and the Philippines that week were also nixed following a Nov. 21 U.S.-government-issued travel advisory in the wake of the terrorist bombing in Turkey. "The very reason why Limp Bizkit/Fred Durst cancelled their concerts in some Southeast Asian countries [is] because of the indistinct fear of Fred Durst on the grounds of security reason[s] referring to the appeal of [the] U.S. State Department," the press release of Original Production stated. "It does not reflect the professional attitude of a band like Limp Bizkit," although the promoter did his best to persuade the band to keep playing in Bali on Dec. 5, the press release added.
Local news outlets in Southeast Asia were not kind, either, often noting the disconnect between the band's defiant lyrics and decision to "head for a shelter," as one columnist put it.
The main sponsor of the concert, Gudang Garam International, a cigarette brand, had extensively promoted the concert in billboards, newspapers and flyers to the tune of about $119,047 (U.S.) and seven local television stations were scheduled to broadcast the event.
Tommy Pratama, the promoter, said that, along with other concert promoters in
Southeast Asia, "we [will] try to persuade the band to reschedule the concert in the near future." "The band violated the contract because the management and agent cancelled the concert just one week before it was scheduled. [If] the rescheduled concert does not materialize, we may bring the case into the court," Pratama said. "It is understandable when they consider Indonesia unsafe, but how about Singapore?" asked Pratama. The Singapore Indoor Stadium had expected the band on Dec. 3. Midas Promotions stated that they also only received notification of the cancellation on Dec. 2. BEC Tero Entertainment, the promoter in Bangkok, also made the cancellation announcement on Dec. 3.
"Actually it [was] Fred Durst who opted for Bali as the venue for its concert in
Indonesia," Pratama argued.

VIP tickets for the concert were $29.70 and regular admission was set at $17.80.
Package tours for the trip to Bali, including transportation, hotel and shuttle to the show were also offered, and will be refunded, Pratama said.
Dates in South Korea and Japan this week are going ahead as planned. The band is next due to play Castle Hall in Osaka, Japan, Dec. 18. The band is popular, although Limp Bizkit's four-letter lyrics on some radio stations in
Jakarta are normally censored. - Wahyuni Kamah
Interviewed for this story: Tommy Pratama, +62 816 843 692; Revie Dhut, Original
Production, +62 21 727 94 423